Numerically quantifying hangboard for a better understanding of when and why hangboard may be useful for hand strength long term

Image source Determining volume of climbing versus hangboard for long term persistent adaptations For persistent long term gains in hand strength one needs to take into account any type of hangboard or campus board work in conjunction with the amount of volume and intensity of climbing. Theoretically one can “just

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ISSN position stands: protein and exercise; diets and body composition; safety and efficacy of creatine supplementation in exercise, sport, and medicine

Going quietly under the radar, the ISSN — International Society of Sports Nutrition — has just recently released 3 position stands this past June 2017. They’re well sourced research articles that give scientific based prescriptions. Protein and exercise Diets and body composition Safety and efficacy of creatine supplementation in exercise,

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Shoes, Sitting, and Lower Body Dysfunctions

No shoes no sitting

This post is an analysis of common orthopedic problems that arise from shoes and sitting, how to evaluate their development, and finally a look at how to implement prehabilitation or rehabilitative protocol to improve their condition. Table of Contents Introduction Shoes Sitting Systemic biomechanical issues Evaluation of lower body dysfunction and

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