Image source – Ben Hardy 44s one arm middle rung BM2k hang Essentially, the point I’m trying to drive home with this article is understanding things like finger strength in terms of limiting factors. My analysis is not mutually exclusive with the fact that hand strength is strongly correlative. Common
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Numerically quantifying hangboard for a better understanding of when and why hangboard may be useful for hand strength long term
Image source Determining volume of climbing versus hangboard for long term persistent adaptations For persistent long term gains in hand strength one needs to take into account any type of hangboard or campus board work in conjunction with the amount of volume and intensity of climbing. Theoretically one can “just
Read moreRepeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. Power Company Podcast and Steve Maisch)
Cover image source I’ve started going back over some old posts on reddit and re-analyzing them from a stronger climbing perspective including the recently updated 7.5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard. The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago (as
Read moreMy 7.5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard
Table of Contents This was delayed ~1 year because of not climbing during COVID (March 2020 to April-ish 2021) then 1.5 years while I’ve been regaining my abilities and other life stuff. Thus, we have the 7.5 year assessment! Need personal help? Can’t find the answers you’re looking for? Let’s
Read moreRehabbing injured pulleys – My experience with rehabbing two A2 pulley issues
Important note: This article is written for A2 pulley injuries, but the rehabilitation concepts work for all pulley injuries. I’ve used it for anywhere from A1 to A5 issues in my patients/clients and recently for some A4 issues myself. This is also the same for lumbrical injuries and loading open
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