Image source Determining volume of climbing versus hangboard for long term persistent adaptations For persistent long term gains in hand strength one needs to take into account any type of hangboard or campus board work in conjunction with the amount of volume and intensity of climbing. Theoretically one can “just
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Repeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. Power Company Podcast and Steve Maisch)
Cover image source I’ve started going back over some old posts on reddit and re-analyzing them from a stronger climbing perspective including the recently updated 7.5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard. The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago (as
Read moreISSN position stands: protein and exercise; diets and body composition; safety and efficacy of creatine supplementation in exercise, sport, and medicine
Going quietly under the radar, the ISSN — International Society of Sports Nutrition — has just recently released 3 position stands this past June 2017. They’re well sourced research articles that give scientific based prescriptions. Protein and exercise Diets and body composition Safety and efficacy of creatine supplementation in exercise,
Read morePrilepin tables for bodyweight strength isometric and eccentric exercises
The Second Edition of Overcoming Gravity has been released on Amazon! This is one of the articles that I wrote in response to the First Edition of the book, and more detail is included about this topic in the Second Edition. I’ve worked on overhauling this article to give you a
Read moreShoes, Sitting, and Lower Body Dysfunctions
This post is an analysis of common orthopedic problems that arise from shoes and sitting, how to evaluate their development, and finally a look at how to implement prehabilitation or rehabilitative protocol to improve their condition. Table of Contents Introduction Shoes Sitting Systemic biomechanical issues Evaluation of lower body dysfunction and
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