NEW 7.5 year assessment is out! This one is oudated now. Sorry for the delay guys. I’ve been working on the book for Overcoming Tendonitis (here’s the site article on it), which has delayed me significantly in working on various articles! I’m happy to continue where I left off. Here’s
Read moreCategory: Articles
How to program for advanced isometric movements after a plateau
I’ve released Overcoming Gravity Advanced Programming e-book which goes over a lot more in-depth programming on how to design workout routines (with the various periodization models) to break plateaus. As Part of the Overcoming Gravity Online series, I decided to release this article as a video. If you are more
Read moreMy 5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard
Last year’s 4 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard. I will indicate where my opinion has changed from last year “old opinion” and some quotes and “new opinion.” I am also simplifying much of what I wrote, so this article is not so long. Update: the 6
Read moreFinger rolls for climbing hand strength and hangboard
Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. One, Two, Three. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. Here’s a video about how they are done. The blurb
Read moreSweaty to dry fingers for climbing: iontophoresis and antihydral experiments
I’ve been on a bit of an article run for climbing now, and I have a couple more coming as well. Most of these articles are to mainly log what tends to work for me and improve my climbing. Perhaps some will find it useful. Background: This article will examine
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