Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. This led to a weakness for
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My 6 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard
NEW 7.5 year assessment is out! This one is oudated now. Sorry for the delay guys. I’ve been working on the book for Overcoming Tendonitis (here’s the site article on it), which has delayed me significantly in working on various articles! I’m happy to continue where I left off. Here’s
Read moreMy 5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard
Last year’s 4 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard. I will indicate where my opinion has changed from last year “old opinion” and some quotes and “new opinion.” I am also simplifying much of what I wrote, so this article is not so long. Update: the 6
Read moreFinger rolls for climbing hand strength and hangboard
Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. One, Two, Three. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. Here’s a video about how they are done. The blurb
Read moreSweaty to dry fingers for climbing: iontophoresis and antihydral experiments
I’ve been on a bit of an article run for climbing now, and I have a couple more coming as well. Most of these articles are to mainly log what tends to work for me and improve my climbing. Perhaps some will find it useful. Background: This article will examine
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